fashion research project

a/w 2012

erdem moralioglu is a british/turkish fashion designer based in london. he broke into the fashion industry in 2005 after winning the fashion fringe competition which takes part every year at london fashion week. his modern feminine designs have proved very popular and his collections are now stocked in over 50 premiere department stores across the world. the piece above is from his autumn/winter 2012 fashion show. i chose this coat as i think the tailoring is very impressive and feel as though the shapes in the collar work really well to frame the neck and face. the fabric that this garment is made from is a woven woollen material and fashioned in hues of black and blue. the hem is knee-length and it is fastened with buttons. the belt helps to accentuate the waist and enhance the female form. the collar is very wide and almost reaches the model's shoulders and is a variation on the classic mandarin style. the coat looks like it was inspired by christian dior's designs during the 1950s and the iconic burberry trench coat.

s/s 2013

rodarte is a new york based fashion label run by sisters kate and laura mulleavy. since its inception in 2005 the company has won a number of awards including the CFDA award for best womenswear design in 2009. it has also been involved with a number of collaborations with high street stores such as target and gap. the dress above is from the most recent collection, spring/summer 2013. it is a short, v-neck dress made from a satin-weave material. the dress is designed to look like a blazer and skirt. this effect is created through the strong contrast in colours and the zig-zag seam at the bottom of the bodice. the dress is constructed in a series of large pleats the run down the torso and across the shoulders. these make the model look very rigid and robotic. 

a/w 2012

maison martin margiela is a french fashion label founded by belgian designer martin margiela. mmm was one of the first western companies to adopt the japanese deconstructionist movement of the late 1980s and 1990s. the design movement was heralded by designers such as rei kawakubo and issey miyake. mmm is known for it's quirky designs and ideas about anonymity, as the designer has never shown his face at any of the shows and often masks his model's faces. although the label is no longer designed by the founder, the current design team have retained his very individual aesthetic. the garment pictured above is from the label's autumn/winter 2012 collection. is it a trench coat made from a camel-cloured material. the proportions of the coat have been altered by the faux-sleeves that are sewn in to the front pockets and drawn in hem. the sleeves cannot be worn as they do not have an opened for the hands so the garment must be worn as a cape instead. i really appreciate martin margiela's approach to design and feel as though i can learn a lot from his alteration on what fashion is perceived as.